Viewpoints from Aussie Cuisine

  • The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international epicurean society founded in Paris in 1950. It is devoted to perpetuate the traditions of French cuisine.

  • The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs was established in Australia by Mogens Bay Esbensen, a Danish chef and food writer who is considered a pioneer of the Contemporary Australian Cuisine.

  • Aussie Cuisine has incorporated many elements of the gastronomic French traditions, from food and wine pairing to food presentation. Technically, there is a sense of refinement in the Aussie Cuisine, which is a result of the French influence.

By Johnnie Walker

A quietly-spoken, diminutive Dane, named Mogens Bay Esbensen, with a remarkable record of epicurean achievements, has come to live among us. He arrives here from Paris, the Australian chapter will be a flourishing fact.

Credit must then go to Mogens Bay Esbensen, whose devotion to the epicurean cause dates back to 1950 when he graduated from the Danish Hotel and Restaurant School of Copenhagen. Since then he has gathered experience and gastronomical honours around the world, making him, in my opinion, one of the most knowledgeable and Versatile epicureans in Australia today, and a distinct asset to the local scene.

Establishing an Australian chanter of La Chaine des Rotisseurs. This order was begun in 1248 by a King of France, ‘for the furtherance and enjoyment of gastronomy, particularly of roasted meats, mostly geese and game’ (as the original chapter said). Today the chapter ‘covers all meats, and La Chaine des Rotisseurs has chapters – in 51 countries,’ and a ‘ membership of 50,000 in 65 countries.

Years ago, ‘I was invested with la Chaine by Alan Chase, chancellor of the Los Angeles chapter of the organisation. As far as I know, I am the only Sydneysider to be thus honoured, although Melbourne has several members. A call has gone out to a number of local citizens to form the Australian chapter.’

It will be expected to abide by the dinner rules of never discussing politics, business or religion, never smoking until after the meal, and always remembering that ‘friendship and gastronomy are the joys of … life.’ (I often feel that these rules should be extended to private dinner tables everywhere.)


Walker, J. (October 31, 1976). Quiet Dane causes a stir. The Sydney Morning Herald from Sydney, New South Wales. Retrieved from


Australian dinner. (n.d.). La Chaine online news. Retrieved from